A straight razor is a traditional men’s accessory that must be properly maintained to ensure a sharp edge. The blade geometry is carefully designed to provide an ideal edge with relatively little effort over time, but this doesn’t mean that using a straight razor is completely maintenance free.
The level of maintenance required depends on the razor material. Some are stainless steel; these require less care since they won’t rust. Other razors must be rinsed in water and dried thoroughly between uses. Do not store a razor damp. If you won’t be using your straight razor for a long period of time, rub it with mineral oil. Anywhere between six and fifteen close shaves will be possible without sharpening or stropping the razor.
If your razor starts to pull at your skin when you use it, then it is time to hone or strop it. Before you consider whetting or sharpening your straight razor’s blade, let it sit for at least 24 to 48 hours after the last use. There is a fine “fin” on the cutting edge which needs to rest between uses. If you try to sharpen the razor too soon after use, the fin will break off, and you will no longer be able to achieve a close shave using that razor.
To whet, or sharpen, the blade, use a strop. This is a strip made of fine leather. The leather can be rubbed with a special abrasive or polishing paste. A strop is used to attain the very sharp, smooth edge of a straight razor. When stropping a straight razor, the razor is held flat against the leather, with the back of the razor against the strop. It is drawn away from the body, and then is turned over and drawn towards the body. At the end of the stroke, keep the blade in contact with the strop. Turn the knife along the back edge (not the cutting edge) so that it is now facing towards you rather than away from you. If you do not turn the knife over before drawing the razor towards your body, you will damage the cutting edge. A strop is used for routine maintenance, and should be done at least every dozen shaves or so. Repeat the stroke at least ten to twenty times every time you strop the razor.
If your straight razor is very dull, or has been dropped or otherwise gained a severely damaged edged, a strop will not be able to improve the cutting edge. Instead, you’ll need to use a knife sharpening stone or take your razor to a specialist. A grinder may be needed to restore the cutting edge of your straight razor if the edge has been severely nicked, such as if it was opened and then fell from a distance onto a hard surface.
To use a sharpening stone or hone to improve the edge, lay the blade completely flat against the stone. Push it forward, in the direction of the cutting edge. At the same time, move it diagonally over the stone so that the entire cutting edge from side to side comes into contact with the stone. Repeat this process about 10 to 20 times. You must ensure that the razor lies completely flat against the stone so that the cutting edge touches the sharpening stone. Do not press against the blade when honing; the blade’s own weight is enough pressure, and much more weight will deform the edge.
Author Resource:
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